For his S/S 2020 collection held at Pier 59 Studios on Sunday, Romeo Hunte explored deconstructionism and the definition of “business attire.” Amongst a star-studded crowd, fashion insiders gathered to see what the Brooklyn-based designer would bring to the fashion masses. The juxtaposition of the collection showed Hunte’s desires to blend two worlds together — streetwear and business wear. The collection featured everything from oversized abstract-print blazers over cuffed denim shorts to parka trench coats where one half was a striped blazer and the other half was a denim jacket.
Hunte has always been one to use juxtaposition in his collection, perhaps to show that fashion doesn’t have to be so straight and narrow and that multiple identities can co-exist. While that is understandable and commendable, there was seemingly a disconnect between a few of Hunte’s pieces or rather their pairing, such as a denim shearling-laced jacket overtop an abstract crop top and leather mini skirt.
Some looks, like one male model who walked the runway with a black blazer stitched into jeans one piece, almost would have operated better as separates to co-exist with other pieces in the wardrobe.
I constantly reminded myself that this was for the Spring and Summer, but most of the collection felt like a New York block party instead of an accessible way to dress for summer Fridays at the office.
There were models in one-legger fits, the bodice split in half and held together by silver metallic rings and exposed zippers. Again, the idea of merging two very prominent markets is extremely doable, but the main question becomes who is the target consumer or the ideal celebrity clientele. To bring streetwear to the luxury market, as Hunte cites his clientele to be, the fabric choice has to reflect the target market and creatively, a flow should take place.
Don’t get me wrong, there were a few moments of potential with some of his fringe parks, abstract sets, and tailored crop blazers. There was a black-and-white dress that offered promise to the traditional and trendsetter, and he had a bold yellow and a bold red suit make their debut for those of us who love a pop of color.
While the pieces individually can be pulled apart to make some interesting connections, I would have loved to see more business-skewed formal sets with a bit of street funk on them to show more accessible opportunities for those who work the 9-5.